Top Notch Roofing, Roofing Contractors, Sugar Hill, GA



Q: What are the steps involved in the removal and replacement of damaged shingles? 


A:  The following steps are recommended for the proper removal and replacement of damaged shingles. 

Notes: In hot weather, cool shingles with a water hose to allow easy separation of the shingle tabs; In cold weather, avoid excessive bending of the shingles as it could cause cracking. 

Step 1: Loosen adhesive under tabs in the second row above the damaged shingle. Lift tabs and withdraw the exposed nails. 

Step 2: Loosen and lift tabs in the first row above damaged shingle and withdraw exposed nails. 

Step 3: Loosen tabs of damaged shingle which can now be removed. 

Step 4: Place new shingle in the same position from which the sample was removed and re-nail. To reseal shingles, lift tab and apply 1” diameter spot of shingle cement under each tab. Press tabs down into the cement. Repeat nailing and cement procedure for any other rows that are damaged. 


Q: Why is ventilation so important? 

A: Ventilation is a crucial factor in the life of a roofing shingle. Heat build-up in the hot summer months, as well as the cold weather of winter will accelerate the aging process of your asphalt roofing shingles. Proper air circulation, regardless of the weather outside, will greatly reduce the chances of leaking, blistering, distortion, curling, rotting of wood structure, wet insulation and many other potential problems. 

It is also important to note that adequate ventilation is required to validate the shingles manufacturer warranty. In Canada for example, minimum requirements prescribed in the National Building Code must be respected. In all cases, the most stringent applicable building codes must be followed. 


Q: Why do different shingle types carry different warranties? 

A: In today’s market, there are many types and styles of shingles available. The various types of shingles come with warranties representative of the life expectancy of each type.  Generally speaking, the heavier the shingle, the longer the warranty. All other things being equal, the weight difference comes from the amount of waterproofing material (asphalt) used during manufacture.


Q: Why are there sections of my roof where the shingles are buckling or puckering? 

A:  Fishmouthing looks like buckling but it is usually random on the roof. The front edge of the shingle is raised, and tapers back into the shingle. Although it does not usually affect the durability of the shingle, it should be addressed. Possible Causes:

  • Moisture build-up in the attic can cause wetting & drying cycles in the shingles. Improving attic ventilation can prevent this. 
  • Installing wet shingles on a dry day, or dry shingles on a wet day will almost guarantee the appearance of fishmouthing.
  • Nails that are ‘popping’ out can also cause fishmouthing. Simply correct the position of the nail. 
  • This phenomena is mainly an aesthetic issue that can be repaired in most cases. The most common repair method would be to use hot melt adhesive to glue down the distorted shingle rendering it flat. To proceed, the sealant bond of the affected shingle should be broken first. These types of repairs are best carried out in mild (not too hot) weather conditions. 


Q: Why are the corners of my shingles turning up? 

A:  Corners of shingles turning up is refered to as Curling and it is generally caused by excess moisture attacking the underside of the shingle. Inadequate ventilation causes the entrapment of heat and moisture in the attic. This will eventually penetrate the roof deck and cause the shingles to curl. Improving air circulation within the attic space can stop the progress and rectify the situation if the curling is not too severe. In some rare instances, curling can reveal itself only under cold weather conditions. This would be refered to as winter curling. The corners of the shingles will slightly curl up from the roof deck when cold, then lay flat again during warmer weather. This is especially prevalent during damp winter conditions when frost forms on the top surface of the shingles. This cooling on the top surface will cause the shingle to contract while at the same time the underside of the shingle in contact with the roof receives a certain amount of passive heat from the attic space. The variation of temperature between the top side and underside of the shingle will result in some minor curling. This does not affect the shingle’s durability and effectiveness to shed water.


Q: What are the black streaks on my roof? 

A: Usually visible on North-facing light-colored roofs ranging from five years old, discoloration or streaking is sometimes mistaken as dirt, moss, or granule loss. It is actually caused by algae growth that propagates in areas of the roof that receive less direct sunlight, and thereby retain a higher level of moisture. Although most noticeable on light shingle colors, the algae affects all asphalt shingle roofs, including darker colors. The discoloration caused by the algae is in no way indicative of a shingle defect. This is an aesthetic concern and will not harm the shingle or shorten the life of the roof. The algae discoloration is difficult to remove from roofing surfaces, but may be lightened using various solutions available at most lumberyards.  

Notes:  Cleaning the shingles is a temporary solution as it will eventually grow back due to higher humidity levels in areas of limited exposure to direct sunlight. The cleaning process will have to be repeated every few years. Care must be taken when cleaning the algae as to not remove excessive amounts of granules that are attached to the surface of the shingles. 


Q: Is it necessary to remove the plastic cellophane tape on the back of shingles? 

A: It it not necessary to remove the plastic cellophane tape that is applied on the back of shingles. This tape is applied during the manufacturing process and prevents the shingles from sticking together in the package.